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OT: Hawaii Trip Report
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sailorgirl
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- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:03 pm
OT: Hawaii Trip Report
Trip Report Hawaii August 2010
Hubby and I wanted to take a special vacation this summer to celebrate five years of marital bliss and our 50th birthdays. Deciding on a location proved to be more of a challenge then expected, but we absolutely made the right choice.
The trip began in Honolulu where we spent 4 days on Wakiki. Frankly not our scene. Even for two New Yorkers the crowds were overwhelming. Hawkers everywhere, some very aggressive, one I had to go "street on" to get him to back off after multiple polite "no thank you" did not dissuade him, the same shops selling the same junk, and please, can anyone tell me just how many ABC Stores are located on Wakiki. That being said, the beach is passable, when one considers it was actually man made. The best part was floating on a cheap $3 air mattress one afternoon for what seemed like hours. I enjoyed the city most in the early morning hours before it really came awake.
On balance glad I went, but would not do Honolulu again. Spent the better part of one day at Pearl Harbor going to the Arizona Memorial, Missouri, Bowfin and Pacific Aviation Museum. Obviously not to be missed. Really enjoyed the drive we took around the island. The Northshpore is much more our vibe. Shrimp Shacks, lovely vistas around every corner. Plopped down on Waimea Bay for a few hours in late afternoon, it was magical.
Hiked up to Diamond Head, everyone is right, go early, the trail is less crowded and you will have more time to enjoy the view from the top.
Food costs were very high. The first night we planned on heading for Duke's bar to have a drink and eat at the bar, (a more economical alternative to the restaurant) but got turned around and ended up at Shorebirds. We got a table and the waitress told us it was grill your own night, I figured you would go up to the grill and a chef would take over... no it was actually cook it yourself. Needless to say we had a great laugh. I must be married to the only man who does not grill, so there I was on my first night of vacation... standing over a hot grill cooking!
Loved the bar at the Westin Moana Surfrider, bartender Craig mixes a mean Mai Tai and there was live music over looking the beach. One restaurant recommendation, is "Town" about 5 -10 minutes off Wakiki in a funky newly trendy area. The food was wonderful.
Next on to Kauai, and it was love at first sight. This must be the most beautiful place on earth, it quite literally takes your breath away. Stayed at a northshore condo, Ali'i Kai 4101, the owners were great to deal with, they gave us an excellent price and pretty much a free day since we had no check out time, "leave at your leisure" was how she put it. It's a great condo and highly recommended.
First day, Anini Beach, set up on the far left near the camp grounds, from here you have a wonderful sweeping view of the bay. What a change from Wakiki, felt like only a handful of people. Hubby did a little snorkeling, saw a great big turtle but the current was running very strong that day as the Trades were up. But the wind kept the beach beautifully cool, so it's a trade off.
It was our anniversary and my husband booked a reservation at The Beach House. It was a long drive down to Poipu but what a perfect meal we had. We arrived just before sunset, our waiter Justin was a doll, and the restaurant sent over a special dessert and a card signed by the whole staff. Nice touch.
Day two we went kayaking on the Hanelei River, rented the kayaks from an outfitters set up directly on the banks. Nice folks but very laid back, after we set off we realized we got no information about the river and no PFD's. Not to worry I don't think it was deeper than 3 feet.
I think we went past the point where the maps tell you to turn back. The most strenuous part is fighting the wind, but we floated slowly back. Learned that my shoulder problem now makes kayaking very uncomfortable so we had to cancel the second trip we had planned up to Secret Falls. Not too many people on the river, for much of it we did not pass anyone else. Grabbed a fish taco from the truck on the east side of Hanaeli Bay and headed for the beach. Set up near the pier, the water was much calmer and had a nice relaxing float. It was a Sunday so the beach was full of lots of families and BBQ's I would have loved to wrangle an invite, the food looked amazing.
Day Three I planned a surprise for my hubby, a flight on a small ( emphasis on small) fixed wing aircraft. Wings Over Kauai, also a great operation, lovely people. Bruce the owner and pilot is my kind of guy, not afraid to let his geek flag fly. He let my No.1 geek take the copilots seat and hubby was grinning like a kid. Most of the aerial tours are helicopters. They can get much lower and closer, but we really enjoyed the fixed wing. It was more quiet and slow, and Bruce was so knowledgeable about island history. The hour just flew by.
Since we were all the way back to Lihue we drove to Waimea Canyon. Spectacular, we drove all the way to the end of the road stopping along at each lookout. The final lookout has the most amazing view, awe inspiring. There are many hiking trails along this park, one which I wanted to try, but never made it back was Phea Trail, starts from the last lookout and goes out to an overlook about 1 ½ miles out. We got there too late and didn't have the proper shoes anyway.
Day Four dawned cloudy and rainy, not bad since the first two days was a little too much sun. We headed to Kilaeau Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge. Very cool and a nice way to spend a morning. After that stopped by the town and cruised the shops, some very nice stuff and a welcome change from the same old same old found in Honolulu. Picked up some lovely watercolors by a local artist, and a loaf of delicious sourdough bread at the bakery.
Next stop was Secret Beach it was overcast but that was fine, we walked over to the lava pools, got some great pics. On the way back picked up some fresh avocados from a roadside stand, made fresh guacamole and enjoyed it with a frosty beverage on the lanai overlooking the vast Pacific! It doesn't suck!
On the fifth day I took hubby on the Batan Death March of Hikes. The initial part of the Kalalau Trail from Ke'e Beach to Hanahaplai Beach. Not really so bad, we took it slow, although many 20 somethings passed us running the trail. Frankly a waste in my view as they were missing the best part, the fabulous scenery and sounds of the forest. But youth is wasted on the young, so they say. We took about 4 hours to do this part of the trail including about 30 minutes on the beach.
Once finished my hubby parked under a tree on Ke'e Beach and fell asleep. Ke'e by the way is a great beach, parking is tight, but that's pretty much the deal all over the northshore. In the evening we went to a Luau at the Hanelei Colony resort. Its very small, only 80 guests. We were wait listed but the manager offered us seats at the bar for a discount and we grabbed them. The bar tender Deanna was a doll and we had a great time chatting with her and another couple at the bar. Pierce Brosnon was supposed to be there but apparently he never showed up. Trust me I scooped the place pretty good for him. The luau was rally sweet. I was a little hesitant to go to one of the big shows, too campy for my tastes, but Hanalei Resort put on a nice show, dancers, musicians and the customary finale of the fire dancer. It was intimate, the food was very good and we didn't have to drive to the other side of the island.
Had one other possible celebrity sighting, Im quite sure I saw a shirtless Harrison Ford filling up his car at the service station in Princeville. The Kauai message boards were ablaze all summer with celebrity information. Several large movies were being filmed, including the latest installment of Pirates of the Caribbean. But most of the movie work had cleared out by the time we arrived.
Day 6 dawned pretty cloudy as well. We headed out early to Queens Bath. Having read all the cautions about this place we approached with some trepidation, but we hit it on a good day, early before the winds picked up, when the tide was down and the seas were calm. The rock formations are very interesting although it was crowed, a little like having too many people in a hot tub. The weather was not cooperating so we headed back to the condo. Later in the day we drove out to the overlook at Wailua Falls and hit the Farmers Market in Kapa'a, scored some great fresh herbs and fruits. Possibly the best pineapple I've ever tasted, we really gorged ourselves on it.
By Day 7 we finally made it to the famous Tunnels Beach, the snorkeling mecca of the northshore. The beach is a long stretch with very limited parking access which keeps it feeling uncrowded. I packed a picnic, we parked at the neighboring Han'ea Beach Park and walked over. Tunnels has a two reefs, inner and outer. When calm the outer reef is very doable. I didn't bring my gear this trip but hubby said the snorkeling was pretty good, lots of fish in many varieties but the reef itself was pretty barren, not a lot of coral variety and almost no soft corrals or fans. Must be related to the ferocity of the wave action.
The forecast for weather the next day was not favorable to set out for the sunnier south shore. We visited the Kauai Museum in Lihue, small but the staff truly loves this museum and had such enthusiasm for the collections, it was infectious. They also have a really nice gift shop where the cashier makes jewelry from shells from the forbidden island Ni'ihau.His work is really beautiful. I got a pair of earrings and rosary beads for my Mom. We tooled around the south shore a bit, hit up Borders for some new reading material, late lunch at Kalipaka Joe's, and back to the condo for cocktails on the lanai.
The next day we headed back for Tunnels and scored one of the coveted parking spots! This time I brought my $3 float and the day just seemed to pass in a relaxation haze. Dinner that night at Kalypso, actually we had two meals there. The guide books don't love this place but we had two very nice meals there. After dinner a movie was shown across the street out in the town square so we grabbed some chairs and watched.
Sunday arrived, our last day. We tried a new beach, Kahalahala beach. The guide book was absolutely right one about this one. If its calm its like the clearest swimming pool you've ever been in. We literally had to drag ourselves out of this spot, but we did have to think about packing up.
Grabbed a late lunch at The Hanalei Gourmet, packed, cleaned up the condo had a last drink on the lanai and headed for our 7:00PM flight to Honolulu. Trip back was long, two layovers in Honolulu and SanDiego, the later to pick up hubby's Mom who stayed the two weeks with her niece ( another long story) and then back to NY. Turned out to be a 36 hour day, and that was with no delays.
Final thoughts. Kauai is a true paradise. The island has so many variations in climate its constantly interesting. You can have a very active vacation or just kick back on anyone of a number of stunning beaches. It is truly the most beautiful place I have ever seen. The people are uniformly warm and inviting. I felt as if I was being treated as a guest in their home, instead of a tourist. It is a place to which we will return, even given the travel hassles from the east coast. I only wish I was eloquent enough to give this place its proper due, but I think its someplace everyone should see once in a lifetime.
!
Hubby and I wanted to take a special vacation this summer to celebrate five years of marital bliss and our 50th birthdays. Deciding on a location proved to be more of a challenge then expected, but we absolutely made the right choice.
The trip began in Honolulu where we spent 4 days on Wakiki. Frankly not our scene. Even for two New Yorkers the crowds were overwhelming. Hawkers everywhere, some very aggressive, one I had to go "street on" to get him to back off after multiple polite "no thank you" did not dissuade him, the same shops selling the same junk, and please, can anyone tell me just how many ABC Stores are located on Wakiki. That being said, the beach is passable, when one considers it was actually man made. The best part was floating on a cheap $3 air mattress one afternoon for what seemed like hours. I enjoyed the city most in the early morning hours before it really came awake.
On balance glad I went, but would not do Honolulu again. Spent the better part of one day at Pearl Harbor going to the Arizona Memorial, Missouri, Bowfin and Pacific Aviation Museum. Obviously not to be missed. Really enjoyed the drive we took around the island. The Northshpore is much more our vibe. Shrimp Shacks, lovely vistas around every corner. Plopped down on Waimea Bay for a few hours in late afternoon, it was magical.
Hiked up to Diamond Head, everyone is right, go early, the trail is less crowded and you will have more time to enjoy the view from the top.
Food costs were very high. The first night we planned on heading for Duke's bar to have a drink and eat at the bar, (a more economical alternative to the restaurant) but got turned around and ended up at Shorebirds. We got a table and the waitress told us it was grill your own night, I figured you would go up to the grill and a chef would take over... no it was actually cook it yourself. Needless to say we had a great laugh. I must be married to the only man who does not grill, so there I was on my first night of vacation... standing over a hot grill cooking!
Loved the bar at the Westin Moana Surfrider, bartender Craig mixes a mean Mai Tai and there was live music over looking the beach. One restaurant recommendation, is "Town" about 5 -10 minutes off Wakiki in a funky newly trendy area. The food was wonderful.
Next on to Kauai, and it was love at first sight. This must be the most beautiful place on earth, it quite literally takes your breath away. Stayed at a northshore condo, Ali'i Kai 4101, the owners were great to deal with, they gave us an excellent price and pretty much a free day since we had no check out time, "leave at your leisure" was how she put it. It's a great condo and highly recommended.
First day, Anini Beach, set up on the far left near the camp grounds, from here you have a wonderful sweeping view of the bay. What a change from Wakiki, felt like only a handful of people. Hubby did a little snorkeling, saw a great big turtle but the current was running very strong that day as the Trades were up. But the wind kept the beach beautifully cool, so it's a trade off.
It was our anniversary and my husband booked a reservation at The Beach House. It was a long drive down to Poipu but what a perfect meal we had. We arrived just before sunset, our waiter Justin was a doll, and the restaurant sent over a special dessert and a card signed by the whole staff. Nice touch.
Day two we went kayaking on the Hanelei River, rented the kayaks from an outfitters set up directly on the banks. Nice folks but very laid back, after we set off we realized we got no information about the river and no PFD's. Not to worry I don't think it was deeper than 3 feet.
I think we went past the point where the maps tell you to turn back. The most strenuous part is fighting the wind, but we floated slowly back. Learned that my shoulder problem now makes kayaking very uncomfortable so we had to cancel the second trip we had planned up to Secret Falls. Not too many people on the river, for much of it we did not pass anyone else. Grabbed a fish taco from the truck on the east side of Hanaeli Bay and headed for the beach. Set up near the pier, the water was much calmer and had a nice relaxing float. It was a Sunday so the beach was full of lots of families and BBQ's I would have loved to wrangle an invite, the food looked amazing.
Day Three I planned a surprise for my hubby, a flight on a small ( emphasis on small) fixed wing aircraft. Wings Over Kauai, also a great operation, lovely people. Bruce the owner and pilot is my kind of guy, not afraid to let his geek flag fly. He let my No.1 geek take the copilots seat and hubby was grinning like a kid. Most of the aerial tours are helicopters. They can get much lower and closer, but we really enjoyed the fixed wing. It was more quiet and slow, and Bruce was so knowledgeable about island history. The hour just flew by.
Since we were all the way back to Lihue we drove to Waimea Canyon. Spectacular, we drove all the way to the end of the road stopping along at each lookout. The final lookout has the most amazing view, awe inspiring. There are many hiking trails along this park, one which I wanted to try, but never made it back was Phea Trail, starts from the last lookout and goes out to an overlook about 1 ½ miles out. We got there too late and didn't have the proper shoes anyway.
Day Four dawned cloudy and rainy, not bad since the first two days was a little too much sun. We headed to Kilaeau Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge. Very cool and a nice way to spend a morning. After that stopped by the town and cruised the shops, some very nice stuff and a welcome change from the same old same old found in Honolulu. Picked up some lovely watercolors by a local artist, and a loaf of delicious sourdough bread at the bakery.
Next stop was Secret Beach it was overcast but that was fine, we walked over to the lava pools, got some great pics. On the way back picked up some fresh avocados from a roadside stand, made fresh guacamole and enjoyed it with a frosty beverage on the lanai overlooking the vast Pacific! It doesn't suck!
On the fifth day I took hubby on the Batan Death March of Hikes. The initial part of the Kalalau Trail from Ke'e Beach to Hanahaplai Beach. Not really so bad, we took it slow, although many 20 somethings passed us running the trail. Frankly a waste in my view as they were missing the best part, the fabulous scenery and sounds of the forest. But youth is wasted on the young, so they say. We took about 4 hours to do this part of the trail including about 30 minutes on the beach.
Once finished my hubby parked under a tree on Ke'e Beach and fell asleep. Ke'e by the way is a great beach, parking is tight, but that's pretty much the deal all over the northshore. In the evening we went to a Luau at the Hanelei Colony resort. Its very small, only 80 guests. We were wait listed but the manager offered us seats at the bar for a discount and we grabbed them. The bar tender Deanna was a doll and we had a great time chatting with her and another couple at the bar. Pierce Brosnon was supposed to be there but apparently he never showed up. Trust me I scooped the place pretty good for him. The luau was rally sweet. I was a little hesitant to go to one of the big shows, too campy for my tastes, but Hanalei Resort put on a nice show, dancers, musicians and the customary finale of the fire dancer. It was intimate, the food was very good and we didn't have to drive to the other side of the island.
Had one other possible celebrity sighting, Im quite sure I saw a shirtless Harrison Ford filling up his car at the service station in Princeville. The Kauai message boards were ablaze all summer with celebrity information. Several large movies were being filmed, including the latest installment of Pirates of the Caribbean. But most of the movie work had cleared out by the time we arrived.
Day 6 dawned pretty cloudy as well. We headed out early to Queens Bath. Having read all the cautions about this place we approached with some trepidation, but we hit it on a good day, early before the winds picked up, when the tide was down and the seas were calm. The rock formations are very interesting although it was crowed, a little like having too many people in a hot tub. The weather was not cooperating so we headed back to the condo. Later in the day we drove out to the overlook at Wailua Falls and hit the Farmers Market in Kapa'a, scored some great fresh herbs and fruits. Possibly the best pineapple I've ever tasted, we really gorged ourselves on it.
By Day 7 we finally made it to the famous Tunnels Beach, the snorkeling mecca of the northshore. The beach is a long stretch with very limited parking access which keeps it feeling uncrowded. I packed a picnic, we parked at the neighboring Han'ea Beach Park and walked over. Tunnels has a two reefs, inner and outer. When calm the outer reef is very doable. I didn't bring my gear this trip but hubby said the snorkeling was pretty good, lots of fish in many varieties but the reef itself was pretty barren, not a lot of coral variety and almost no soft corrals or fans. Must be related to the ferocity of the wave action.
The forecast for weather the next day was not favorable to set out for the sunnier south shore. We visited the Kauai Museum in Lihue, small but the staff truly loves this museum and had such enthusiasm for the collections, it was infectious. They also have a really nice gift shop where the cashier makes jewelry from shells from the forbidden island Ni'ihau.His work is really beautiful. I got a pair of earrings and rosary beads for my Mom. We tooled around the south shore a bit, hit up Borders for some new reading material, late lunch at Kalipaka Joe's, and back to the condo for cocktails on the lanai.
The next day we headed back for Tunnels and scored one of the coveted parking spots! This time I brought my $3 float and the day just seemed to pass in a relaxation haze. Dinner that night at Kalypso, actually we had two meals there. The guide books don't love this place but we had two very nice meals there. After dinner a movie was shown across the street out in the town square so we grabbed some chairs and watched.
Sunday arrived, our last day. We tried a new beach, Kahalahala beach. The guide book was absolutely right one about this one. If its calm its like the clearest swimming pool you've ever been in. We literally had to drag ourselves out of this spot, but we did have to think about packing up.
Grabbed a late lunch at The Hanalei Gourmet, packed, cleaned up the condo had a last drink on the lanai and headed for our 7:00PM flight to Honolulu. Trip back was long, two layovers in Honolulu and SanDiego, the later to pick up hubby's Mom who stayed the two weeks with her niece ( another long story) and then back to NY. Turned out to be a 36 hour day, and that was with no delays.
Final thoughts. Kauai is a true paradise. The island has so many variations in climate its constantly interesting. You can have a very active vacation or just kick back on anyone of a number of stunning beaches. It is truly the most beautiful place I have ever seen. The people are uniformly warm and inviting. I felt as if I was being treated as a guest in their home, instead of a tourist. It is a place to which we will return, even given the travel hassles from the east coast. I only wish I was eloquent enough to give this place its proper due, but I think its someplace everyone should see once in a lifetime.
!
Re: OT: Hawaii Trip Report
OMG... we did that trail about five years ago, and then turned up towards Hanakapi`ai Falls for another two miles. The red clay ground was slippery, and when we finished we really felt like we'd been on a death march. Funny though, those are the vacation experiences that I cherish. I seem to remember a very tasty cheeseburger in Hanalei following our hike.sailorgirl wrote:On the fifth day I took hubby on the Batan Death March of Hikes. The initial part of the Kalalau Trail from Ke'e Beach to Hanakapi`ai Beach. Not really so bad, we took it slow, although many 20 somethings passed us running the trail. Frankly a waste in my view as they were missing the best part, the fabulous scenery and sounds of the forest. But youth is wasted on the young, so they say. We took about 4 hours to do this part of the trail including about 30 minutes on the beach.
Thanks for your report. It brought back a lot of great memories of our trip to Hawaii.
Lovermont
Nice report. Sometimes we have the should we or shouldnt we talk about Hawaii, considering the pros (obvious) and cons (cost, travel from east coast). A report like this helps with the pros category. When it comes up, I always regret not going that winter right after 9/11 when they were almost giving trips to Hawaii away.
When we come to place where the sea and the sky collide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
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sailorgirl
- Posts: 1644
- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:03 pm
Fuuny thing, our inital inclination was to do London for the trip! Ive been enjoying your reports, but on our second to last day in Kauai, I was in line chatting with a woman from London about the glorious weather who gleefully reported that it was 52 degrees and raining in London that day.jmq wrote:Nice report. Sometimes we have the should we or shouldnt we talk about Hawaii, considering the pros (obvious) and cons (cost, travel from east coast). A report like this helps with the pros category. When it comes up, I always regret not going that winter right after 9/11 when they were almost giving trips to Hawaii away.
I pity your husband having to top your 5th anniversary!! He better start planning now. I am glad you had a great trip. I was just thinking about you wondering if you enjoyed Hawaii.
Wings Over Kauai--wow! What a great surprise!! That looks like an adventure.
We loved Ke’e Beach. Was the sand smoking hot?
I agree with your summary. Kauai is amazing and we also felt like guests. I also agree with you about Honolulu. I thought the street performers were pretty fun. I like walking around and seeing all the people buzzing around. Did you do any of that?
xoxo
Wings Over Kauai--wow! What a great surprise!! That looks like an adventure.
We loved Ke’e Beach. Was the sand smoking hot?
I agree with your summary. Kauai is amazing and we also felt like guests. I also agree with you about Honolulu. I thought the street performers were pretty fun. I like walking around and seeing all the people buzzing around. Did you do any of that?
xoxo
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sailorgirl
- Posts: 1644
- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:03 pm
XOXO,
Ke'e sand was definitley smoking. It was funny watching the people hit the sand and then break into a flat out run to the water.
You are right though, Hoinolulu is great people watching territory, it was our entertainment in the evening, lots of laughs,... but whats with deal with all those shooting clubs? We got acosted every night. Finally my husband said, "no thnaks, I have my own at home," that git them to stop.
Ke'e sand was definitley smoking. It was funny watching the people hit the sand and then break into a flat out run to the water.
You are right though, Hoinolulu is great people watching territory, it was our entertainment in the evening, lots of laughs,... but whats with deal with all those shooting clubs? We got acosted every night. Finally my husband said, "no thnaks, I have my own at home," that git them to stop.
You would have had a good laugh if you were there when we arrived. We had NO idea. What do you think the cause is of it being more hot than other sand--in a big way.sailorgirl wrote:XOXO,
Ke'e sand was definitley smoking. It was funny watching the people hit the sand and then break into a flat out run to the water.
xoxo
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sailorgirl
- Posts: 1644
- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:03 pm
I have no idea, but the sand at most of the beaches was pretty hot, maybe it was the distance needed to cover to the water which made it feel that much hotter.XOXO wrote:You would have had a good laugh if you were there when we arrived. We had NO idea. What do you think the cause is of it being more hot than other sand--in a big way.sailorgirl wrote:XOXO,
Ke'e sand was definitley smoking. It was funny watching the people hit the sand and then break into a flat out run to the water.
xoxo
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IslandElle
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 8:21 pm
- Location: Dallas
Re: OT: Hawaii Trip Report
We actually saw him last week walking through Hanalei with his wife and kids. I was crossing the street and he pulled right in front of me then parked, so I had to run back across the street and tell my hubby who was waiting for me to finish shopping. Then while I was shopping I ran into them in one of the stores. I really didn't look at him while in the store. I just didn't want to impose but hearing him speak was glorious! I have loved him since Remington Steele! Glad you had a good trip!sailorgirl wrote: Pierce Brosnon was supposed to be there but apparently he never showed up. Trust me I scooped the place pretty good for him.