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Hinds 02/10/2009
Reviewers Rating: Good
Located in the old Tage space, and headed up by the chef previously at the Stone Terrace, Hinds offers upscale food in a streetside location. Service was very good, but our experience with the food was decidedly mixed. We started with an amuse of spicy tomato gazpacho. This was delicious—just the right amount of heat and salt. It tasted like a slightly crunchy bloody mary. For appetizer, we split the country salad—frisee with poached egg, blue cheese, and lardons. This was an excellent dish. The chef was nice enough to split the salad in the kitchen, and gave each of us a full egg. The eggs were perfectly cooked, the greens were wonderfully fresh, the cheese was just “stinky” enough, and the thick chunks of bacon were crisp, smoky, and fatty. I could have made this salad alone my entire meal! If you go to Hinds, get this dish.

For mains, John ordered the lobster three ways: Lobster cappuccino, butter poached lobster tail, and a lobster falafel cake. I tried some of the falafel and the cappuccino. Both were excellent—especially the cappuccino. The layering of flavors was truly exquisite. My main dish was less successful. I ordered the tuna with fingerlings, greens, and foie gras jus. The tuna was very fresh and perfectly cooked, but the fingerlings were frankly boring, and I did not understand the purpose of the foie sauce. Not only was it slightly grainy, I thought it muddied the flavor of the tuna and the color of the sauce was very unappetizing.

Dessert was a white chocolate lavender cr譥 brulee, and it was a disaster. The flavors were good, but the custard came out from the kitchen completely liquefied and extremely hot. The sugar crust was too thick also. I’m not sure what went wrong here but it was very disappointing. The chef also allowed us to sample his house-infused cinnamon rum. It tasted just like those red hot candies—tongue numbing!

There are a lot of well done things on this menu, and the chef is obviously very talented, but for the prices charged I think there are some kinks that need to be worked out before dinner here is worth the tally on the final bill.

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